Thanks to the holiday gifting cycle, many homes are newly adorned with 3D printers.Upload and share their 3D models to other people who use the same printer. Some noobs are clearly in the “plug and play” camp, looking for a user experience no more complicated than installing a new 2D printer. But most of us quickly learn that adding a dimension increases the level of difficulty substantially, and tinkering ensues. One such tinkerer, has been taking his new Cetus 3D printer to new places, and his latest video offers a trio of tips to enhance the user experience of this bare-bones but capable printer. While the company offers a heated aluminum bed for ABS and PETG printing at a very reasonable price, rolled his own.
He bolted some power resistors to the aluminum platen, built a simple controller, and used the oversized stock power supply to run everything. To contain the heat, tip two is an enclosure for the printer. Nothing revolutionary here - just built a quick cover from aluminum profiles and acrylic.īut the clear case allows for tip number three, the gem of this video: synchronized time-lapse photography. Unhappy with the jerky time-lapse sequences that are standard fare, he wrote a Python program that uses OpenCV to compare webcam frames and save those that are similar to the last saved frame. This results in super smooth time-lapse sequences that make it look like the print is being extruded as a unit. Pretty neat stuff.ĭid you find a 3D printer under your Festivus Pole, and now you’re wondering what’s next? Check out ’s guide for 3D newbies for more tips. Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged Cetus3D, frame dropping, heated bed, opencv, printer, time-lapse Post navigationĪnother option for taking smooth-looking timelapses is to use the “layer change script” feature in your slicer (Simplif圓D calls it “Layer change script”, slic3r has “Before layer change G-code” and “After layer change G-code”) and the Marlin gcode – move to an absolute or relative position, Wait, trigger camera, Wait again if needed, then either move back or resume. That’s a very rough version – details will depend on your camera and printer, where you want the bed and hotend to be in the picture (you can set very shallow depth of field and focus on a very specific area, then make sure the front section of the most recent layer is perfectly in focus, for instance), how long it takes for your camera to take the picture, etc.
Cetus3d slicer code#
Last time I played with this it took some tweaking to the M240 code to get it to trigger my Canon T3i reliably – it would sometimes trigger an immediate picture, sometimes trigger the “wait x seconds and take picture” mode, and sometimes not trigger at all it looks like the code has been made more reliable though. The 2022 Supercon Badge Is A Handheld Trip Through Computing History 48 Comments It would also be easy to implement this in OctoPrint, if it’s not an option already (haven’t checked Timelapse settings recently…).Arya Voronova on Medicine Dosing Spoon Discontinued, Made 3D Printable Instead.Dan on Medicine Dosing Spoon Discontinued, Made 3D Printable Instead.
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